Eating Out:
Madeleine's Petit Paris in Northvale

By NANCY THORPE
RESTAURANT REVIEWER

Madeleine's Petit Paris gives a warm welcome on a bitterly cold night, in every sense of the word - from the soothing heat of a fire-place to the sincere smile, handshake and French-accented greeting of Madeleine herself.

As I watched hostess Madeleine - and, on our second visit, her talented husband, Gaspard Caioz, resplendent in chefs whites and tall, starched toque - visit every table, it was clear that there were many regulars in the place.

It's not hard to see why. The food is delicious, the atmosphere cozy and friendly, and guests are treated to lots of special touches, from a refreshing sorbet intermezzo to a complimentary sweet at meal's end. We received warm, freshly baked mini-madeleines one night and chocolate-dipped strawberries the other. Ooh-la-la.

Caloz brings a masterful light touch to French classics, delivering full, robust flavors without being too heavy or too rich. The vermouth-kissed sauce on his coquille St. Jacques ($10.50), for example, is plenty creamy, yet it showcases rather than smothers the sweet, supple scallops.

Three dozen tiny, tender mussels ($9.50) served in a bowl were steamed in white wine and garlic, then drizzled with an intoxicating buttery sauce bursting with tiny diced vegetables and the subtle zing of Dijon mustard. How fortunate that warm petite baguettes had been brought around: What better way to soak up every last drop?

The gnocchi aux champignons ($6.50) weren't the lightest dumplings I've ever had, but once again, the intensity of flavor was riveting. A simple oil infused with were all it took to make this starter a winner.

After all that flavor, shrimp and asparagus mille-feuilles fell flat. Though the components were fresh and perfectly cooked - the shrimp firm, the asparagus bright green and tender-crisp - the sauce was surprisingly bland. A strip of puff pastry did little to liven things up.

Straight to Paris
Between courses, guests are served a lovely complimentary house salad of tender mesclun greens and grape tomatoes in a gentle vinaigrette. This is followed by a palate-cleansing intermezzo; one night a refreshing citrus sorbet, the other a blueberry-raspberry sorbet.

One entree in particular transported me straight to Paris, where I once stopped in a tiny neighborhood cafe with lace curtains and enjoyed a dish exactly like the red snapper Dijonnais ($27.50).

Once again, Caloz's cream sauce, enriched with tangy French mustard, was delectable, and the fish was topped with a dollop of zesty tomato concasse.

Chicken a la Valasaine ($27.50) featured tender chicken breast medallions in a velvety white wine cream sauce topped with grape tomatoes and garlic cloves, slow-roasted to sweet, caramelized perfection.

Every entree comes with a plate of three side dishes that vary each night On our first visit we received cheesy potatoes au gratin, braised fennel and zucchini; on the second it was roasted new potatoes, fresh carrots and haricots verts.

I found the sauce on the duck a 1'orange ($30.50) too thin, though it was marvelously fragrant with spicy orange Grand Mamier. The duck itself was tender and juicy, but a bit tricky to eat, served on the bone. Small segments of fresh orange provided juicy, sweet-tart bursts of flavor.

Shrimp and scallops Provencal ($27.50) was light, bright and fresh, the plump seafood poached in tomatoes, garlic, white wine and herbs and served over delicate angel-hair pasta.

The wine list is thoughtful and diverse, with many reasonably priced bottles and a good variety of selections by the glass. On Tuesdays, you may bring your own wine with no corkage fee, a delightful perk.

The decor is light and pretty, with all the walls covered in pale blue floral fabric. A drape on the back wall hides a door to the adjacent special event room and a garden beyond that. Here you'll find private parties, holiday dinners and even ballroom dancing lessons.

Light as air
The clientele is genteel, the atmosphere a bit mellow and sedate; that is to say it skews older. Madeleine told me that they often have milestone birthday celebrations - the previous week, two guests had turned 100. On these occasions, she and her husband serenade the celebrants in French with "La Vie en Rose," which must be touchingly sweet.

Perhaps it's as sweet as the superb creme brulee ($6.50), with its delightfully delicate sugar crust, or the classic apple tart ($7.50), with thin-sliced fruit on flaky puff pastry, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a drizzle of caramel and fresh berries.

But for pure drama, nothing beats the dessert souffle ($15 for two). Put your order in early, because a good souffle takes time. Our chocolate souffle was paraded out, its puffy dome towering high above the rim, scooped out onto two plates, and presented with a gravy boat of vanilla-scented creme anglaise. It was light as air, yet luscious as can be.

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